Fashion show champions size diversity

Sinéad O’Dwyer’s Fashion in Motion show, held at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum, presented a cast of models and performers in a variety of clothing, including underwear, skirt suits, and sequins. A notable aspect of the event was the diversity of body shapes and sizes represented on the catwalk. The show also featured interpretive dancing by the band Jeanie and The White Boys.

Challenging Industry Standards

O’Dwyer has consistently challenged the fashion industry's preference for thin body types since her appearance at London Fashion Week in 2021. While typical sample clothing is based on sizes 4-8, O’Dwyer uses a size 18 for her designs. Her work has garnered awards and attracted celebrity endorsements from figures such as Cardi B and Björk. The event on Friday was open to the public with tickets priced at £5, a move O’Dwyer stated aligns with her brand's inclusive ethos, contrasting with the exclusivity of the luxury fashion system.

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Despite a period of increased focus on body diversity, progress appears to have stalled. A report by Vogue Business on size inclusivity for autumn/winter 2026 indicated that 97.6% of models featured were 'straight-size', corresponding to UK sizes 4-8. This trend away from diversity has been linked by some to broader societal shifts.

“Sinéad and a few other young designers are carrying a huge amount of effort that the rest of the industry seems unwilling to make. To me, being inclusive is the most punk thing you can do.”

Emma Matell, casting director

Barriers to Inclusivity

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Casting director Emma Matell observed a trend towards women being expected to 'take up less space'. Stylist Jeanie Annan-Lewin suggested this coincides with wider societal changes. Lucy Maguire, features director at Vogue Business, noted the influence of weight-loss drugs contributing to a renewed emphasis on thinness within fashion culture. While London Fashion Week shows more body diversity than other fashion weeks, straight-size models still constituted 92.7% of those featured, according to the Size Inclusivity Report.

The practical and financial challenges of adapting manufacturing processes for larger clothing sizes are significant obstacles to greater body diversity. O’Dwyer believes that visual representation on high-fashion platforms is crucial, recalling her own desire to be a size 6 as a young person, despite not understanding the reason for it. The average clothing size in the UK is 16.

A survey by Vogue Business revealed that 68% of plus-size respondents felt alienated by the fashion industry due to their size, compared to 17% of straight-size respondents. Annan-Lewin finds it peculiar that the industry often assumes plus-size individuals lack disposable income for luxury goods. Experts suggest that financial support for brands committed to increasing size diversity is essential for progress. Annan-Lewin stressed the need for concrete actions beyond discussion to address 'fatphobia' within the industry.