Camberwell Arms Gastropub Maintains Appeal

The Camberwell Arms, a gastropub located at 65 Camberwell Church Street, SE5, has once again been reviewed by The Standard. This latest assessment comes twelve years after the publication's first review in 2014, when the establishment was noted for its "insouciant unified sense of purpose" and a simple philosophy of "giving people what they want," according to The Standard.

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Since its initial review, The Camberwell Arms has transitioned from a new venture to a favoured local spot and a destination for some. It is frequently listed among London's best Sunday roasts, with the reviewer noting an exception for roasts outside the home due to concerns about value and quality of accompaniments, though the pub often features a pie option. The establishment's commitment to in-house butchery and charcuterie has also made it a recognised training ground for chefs, with several notable culinary figures having worked in its kitchen. The publication reported that the pub's motto, "All’s well," remains on its menus.

Dining Experience and Menu Highlights

During a visit on a Saturday evening, the dining room was observed to be full, with a diverse clientele including couples, friends, families, and a hen party. The reviewer began with two signature toast options: beer onions with Comté cheese, and pork fat with Scotch bonnet. These items, which are permanent fixtures on the menu, were described as providing a comforting flavour and a spicy kick, respectively. The pork fat toast was noted for its richness, balanced by the pepper's sharpness and sweetness, as reported by The Standard.

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The menu also features starters that highlight seasonal produce, such as carosello cucumbers with tahini and a peach and mozzarella salad. For main courses, the kitchen focuses on straightforward, well-executed dishes. The reviewer ordered a half-roast chicken, served with chips and aioli. The chicken was glazed with a Calabrian chilli and honey sauce. While the reviewer desired more moisture in the meat and a stronger sauce, they found the accompanying chips to be excellent.

Dessert was a honey mousse with Graham cracker and strawberries. The reviewer described this dish as "virtuosic," particularly praising the quality of the strawberries and the balance of the mousse's sweetness with the biscuit's depth. The overall experience concluded with the reviewer feeling "full and well-fuelled," reinforcing the pub's enduring appeal.

The Standard concluded that the pub's original promise of "giving people what they want", defined as accessible food cooked properly with uncomplicated, quality ingredients, remains true twelve years later. The meal for two was estimated to cost about £200.